Palo Duro Canyon, often referred to as the “Grand Canyon of Texas,” has a rich history that spans over 12,000 years. From the earliest inhabitants, the Clovis and Folsom peoples, to the Apache, Comanche, and Kiowa tribes, and the arrival of European explorers, this breathtaking natural wonder has witnessed a remarkable journey through time.
Early Inhabitants and Explorers
The Clovis and Folsom peoples were the first known inhabitants of Palo Duro Canyon, dating back over 12,000 years. These early cultures hunted large herds of mammoth and giant bison, leaving behind rock art and bedrock mortars that can still be seen today.
Later, the Apache, Comanche, and Kiowa tribes utilized the canyon’s abundant resources for hunting and gathering. The canyon’s name, Palo Duro, is derived from the Spanish word for hardwood, referring to the abundant mesquite trees in the area.
The first European explorers to come upon the canyon were members of the Coronado expedition in 1541. During this expedition, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado led a Thanksgiving celebration in May of 1541, which is considered the first Thanksgiving in America.
The Red River War and the JA Ranch
The Red River War between the U.S. Army and southern Plains Indians lasted from June 1874 to spring 1875. A decisive battle occurred in the canyon on Sept. 28, 1874, where Colonel Ranald S. Mackenzie led the 4th U.S. Cavalry in a surprise attack at dawn on a camp of Comanches, Kiowas, and Cheyennes. This effectively ended the reign of Native Americans over the Panhandle plains.
In 1876, Charles Goodnight, a former Texas Ranger, drove 1,600 Longhorn cattle to the canyon and founded the JA Ranch with his partner John Adair, an English aristocrat. At its peak in 1885, the ranch grazed 100,000 head of cattle on 1,325,000 acres spread across the Panhandle. After Adair’s death, his widow, Cornelia, took over as Goodnight’s partner. In 1887, Goodnight decided to scale back his ranching activities, and the partnership ended that year, with the partners dividing the land. Most of the canyon belonged to the JA Ranch up until 1890, and Adair descendants continue to run the JA Ranch today.
The Civilian Conservation Corps and the Creation of Palo Duro Canyon State Park
In 1933, the state bought the land for the park from Fred S. Emory. Soon after, Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) workers arrived and spent the next five years creating a park. They built a camp for their home base, set to work in the immense canyon, and built the winding road to the canyon floor. CCC workers made all of the park’s original improvements, including El Coronado Lodge (now the Visitor Center), the cabins on the rim and canyon floor, and trails. Designers planned the park to maximize views and complement the surroundings, using local stone and wood for building materials.
Palo Duro Canyon State Park has a rich and captivating history, from its earliest inhabitants to the arrival of European explorers, the Red River War, the JA Ranch, and the creation of the park by the Civilian Conservation Corps. Visitors can explore this natural wonder and learn about its fascinating past.
References:
– Legends of America: Palo Duro Canyon
– Handbook of Texas Online: Palo Duro Canyon
– Texas Parks and Wildlife: Palo Duro Canyon State Park History
– Austin American-Statesman: Twisted History Lurks Within Walls of Palo Duro
– The Look of Nature: Palo Duro Canyon, A New Deal for Texas State Parks